With a few new endeavors on the horizon, the famous fashion design company and Sydney, Australia boutique known for their corsets and alternative couture, Gallery Serpentine, is still going strong after 15 years.

interview by : Vanity Kills & Jennifer Link
photographer : Zelko Nedic
fashion stylist : Gallery Serpentine
makeup artist : Emma Lee Court and Renee De Bono
makeup : Illamasqua
hair stylist : Ambo Ars
models : Miroslav Naskovic, Sophie J. Wilde, Susy Natal, James Heathers, Lauren Kyle, and Jeremy Ansley

It’s safe to say that upon handing yourself over to the whimsical couturiers behind Australia’s celebrated Gallery Serpentine, you’ll soon forget all about the outmoded notion of, “being dressed to the nines”. Instead, you shall be whisked right past 10 and into a world of instantly recognizable style that is off the charts. No surprise there, since this Sydney-based “Home of Australian Corsetry and Alternative Couture” prides itself on being an “Antidote to the Mundane”. After all, nothing lights up a room like a Gallery Serpentine pointed waist cincher fashioned from black aston brocade, a distinguished pinstripe kirtle skirt that drapes just right, or a high-collared undertaker inspired coat. But that’s just one small piece of a greater fantastically fashionable puzzle. If you heart’s desire lies in transforming your entire wedding entourage into a horde of airship pirates, the brand’s alternative bridal salon, can help you satiate your steamiest matrimonial appetites. And if you wish to be plucked from the banality of day-to-day life by the way of sartorially minded old-school carnival magic, where tunes and togs collide: Dark Fashion Theatre beckons with promises of delivering a tantalizing, multi-performer road show unlike that which you’ve ever seen, letting you fulfill those, “I’ve run away with a really well-dressed circus,” fantasies you’ve always harbored. At least for one night.

Writer Vanity Kills and editor Jennifer Link had the pleasure of interviewing Stephanie Calkin of Gallery Serpentine.

Jennifer Link : Gallery Serpentine has had multiple designers and guest designers throughout its 15 years, can you give us a mini history lesson, who were some of the highlights and who is still working with Gallery Serpentine today?
Stephanie Calkin : Annette Magus, my sister, was the sole designer when her first label, Magus, morphed into Gallery Serpentine in the early years after she came back from Camden in London where she had a great following. She developed the corsetry during this period when you couldn’t buy a corset in Australia. She continues to contribute her signature romantic neo-Victorian styles and also what I’d categorize as “practical goth” or “corporate goth” daywear. For me I was making “deadtech” creations utilizing circuitboard screen prints and wiring diagrams with used computer parts and often pictures of Einstein. It was great to have this recognized with a color spread in a local Sydney gay publication and getting the cover of another local paper and having the winner of the Miss Geek competition in the USA wearing one of my deadtech corsets.

Once GS started growing and we were employing some creatives who in the main came out of the theater costume background an acceleration of dramatic designs came through. Basically nearly everyone who has ever worked here has ended up contributing designs whether it is the production team or the retail team. We used to have very intense staff design meetings every few months and design sheets were rampant pieces of paperwork wherever you went upstairs in our old shop in a Victorian terrace.

Shannon Mullane is still with us after about eight years, she originally started as a work experience student and is now Production Manager and has designed some great new styles for us.

Other guest designers are USA steampunk legend, Evelyn Kriete and Sydney’s own Robert from Red Rabbit & Ensign who really helped us kickstart our GS Gentlemen ranges. Our new Dapper Bastard ranges are being spurred along by a Victorian style strong man and scientist, Abbadon/James Heathers.

read the full interview in the December/January 2011/2012 Issue

Enshrouded in a sensual darkness, Heavy Red has always catered to those seeking something more from goth style. An icon and designer whose workmanship has entitled them to countless loyal fans and followers, Tyler Ondine Whitman and the crew at Heavy Red continue to redefine the concept and approach to gothic by playing with both subtlety and drama always with an air of sophistication. For connoisseurs of a darker aesthetic, a darker beauty, the future of goth fashion has never looked so bright.

photograher : Jennifer Link
fashion stylist : Meagan Hendrickson
makeup artist : Andrea Losecco
hair stylist : Erin Moser
model : Agatka
interview : Vanity Kills

Heavy Red’s fashions bring out the best in a woman without overshadowing her. This great achievement can be partially attributed to the countless hours designer Tyler Ondine Whitman invested into studying and photographing the female form in all its variance; from the bare flesh of strippers, swaying from the poles of Chez Paree in San Francisco’s Tenderloin district, to the hyper-exaggerated visages of femininity presented by pageant winning drag queens in Alabama. Repeated exposure to this colorful Lucite heeled and be-sequined cast of characters taught Whitman how to articulate sensuality-drenched garments which readily invite flattery and praise, instead of simply drowning the wearer in a metric ton of lace, ruffles and tulle netting. As Heavy Red tirelessly continues to uphold the maxim of, “you should wear the dress, don’t let the dress wear you,” Tyler teases with previews of their fall 2011 collection, shares relevant tips on swimsuit season survival aimed at the black-clad crowd, and talks of perusing the principles of form fitting design at nudie bars.

Heavy Red is getting ready to launch their fall collection, what surprises do you have in store?
Tyler Ondine Whitman : Heavy Red is itself like a young woman, one who is always discovering new facets of her personality. One who explores her sexuality, one who redefines herself through substance and style. A woman who can be the picture of elegance during the day and a down right naughty spectacle after dark. The new fall line has so many exciting elements to help you create a look that is an absolute you. This season suitings, herringbones, pinstripes are playing a big role. Corsets like you have never seen before which will leave you breathless. Our new winter coat is in the works, definitely a must have for fall season. As always I have had some extra fun with some very over the top skirts. I am continuing to push the boundaries of what one could call a hoodie, with all new draping and accentuating of the silhouette. And of course some very unexpected surprises to tantalize the sophisticated Heavy Red shopper.

read the full interview in the August/September 2011 Issue

We all have a penchant for the dark, the macabre, and the taboo. Nottingham UK’s Krissy Gore of Gore Couture makes this otherwise “secret” fascination a part of her everyday. In a word: sick, but we love it that way. It is the one-of-a-kind artistry that goes into each corset fashioned at GC that brings the taboo to the forefront, but makes ownership of any of these creations an experience in blood-soaked craftsmanship.

photographers : Iberian Black Arts Photography and Bodó Janos Attila
models/stylists : Morgana, Elyssia, RazorCandi, and Silent Noise
interview : Vanity Kills

If sugar and spice and everything nice isn’t exactly the first thing you look for while corset shopping, there’s always broken mirror shards, disembodied doll heads, and stitched cadaver flesh. Let’s face it, sometimes gratuitous use of graphic horror violence warms the cockles of one’s blackened heart in ways pink floral brocade never will. Such occasions call for wearing something that makes a truly visceral impact. Like a gore-geously crafted steel boned underbust, bedecked with printed pages straight out of a serial killer’s diary — complete with eyelids harvested from those who perished at her hands. At times like this, Krissy Gore of Gore Couture makes exactly what it takes to quench your sartorial blood lust. This master craftswoman and corsetière, adept at glamourizing the ghastly, will clothe your inner zombie/vampire/bird of prey in tight-lacing garments designed to elicit stares of awe and admiration alike. Who says that torture and dismemberment shouldn’t be synonymous with style?

When did you first discover your love of corsetry? When did the deciding moment of merging your love of horror with your love of corsets take place?
Krissy Gore : I discovered my love of corsetry many years ago. For me they were always the icing on the cake to any outfit, whether on show or worn as a foundation garment. Gore Couture was a natural progression having already worked and been associated with other alternative clothing companies. I was already making corsets and was wanting to combine my corsetry skills with my art when I met Miss Fiendish who at the time was making some pretty awesome PVC prints. We got together and created Gore Couture. GC is now just myself, Krissy Gore, creating all the designs, prints, and embellishments from scratch.

view the full feature in the June/July 2011 Issue

BabyLove’s Latex, just one of five Renee Masoomian lines of head designer Renee Masoomian and business coordinator Dean Troxell, turns up the fashion on a traditionally fetish material and throws in a vintage twist. Add a little latex to your wardrobe or stock up your existing collection with BabyLove’s Latex’s versatile separates that are as fun and cheeky as the collection’s tagline; “When skirts were tight and women were loose.”

photographer : Luke Copping
fashion stylist : Jennifer Link
makeup artist : Andrea Claire Losecco
model : Manchester
assistant : Jason Stoos
location producer : Mario Lorenzo
special thanks : Silverthorne Mansion
interview by : Jennifer Link

What is the origin of the name “BabyLove’s Latex”?
Dean Troxell : I have pretty much always called Renee ‘BabyLove’. When we were thinking of a name for a new latex line, I half-jokingly proposed the name to Renee as a possibility and she liked it, so it stuck. Developing the line was the final addition to our stable, which consists of five distinct lines.
Renee Masoomian : The apostrophe in ‘BabyLove’s Latex’ is designation of ownership.

How does the aesthetic, branding, and target customer differ with BabyLove’s Latex from your other lines?
DT : There are five lines under the company label, Renee Masoomian. The last two are latex lines, but Matter + Form sometimes uses re-used bicycle inner-tubes. The first two tend to use more traditional fabrics than not. Renee Masoomian, higher-end signature line which utilizes classic traditional cuts and avant-garde elements. Circuit Bent, club and street wear. Matter + Form, bags and accessories line made from re-used bicycle inner-tubes. BabyLove’s Latex, latex basics and more intricate stock pieces. Soliloquy, ornate stock and custom latex pieces.

read the full interview in the April/May 2011 Issue

Even in the uncertain economic climate of today, the old adage of “you get what you pay for” appears to hold as much weight as ever. If exquisitely opulent headwear is what your heart lusts after, it’s wisest to opt for an investment piece that is truly built to last. Kat Toronto of Hey Sailor! rises to the occasion.

interview by Vanity Kills

In recent years, accessory boutique chains latched onto the tiny top hat trend seemingly for dear life. It’s now easier than ever to affix a mass manufactured concoction of felt, marabou feathers, and sequins to your head for the low, low price of $12.99. Alas, it is advised that the ladies who pride themselves on rejecting the concept of disposable “fast fashion” , who long to add handmade tricorns, pillboxes, and cloches crafted with utmost skill and care to their accessory arsenal, to seek out San Francisco based master milliner Kat Toronto of Hey Sailor! So, if you dream of a nine-inch pirate ship sailing on a bed of hot pink PVC, pleat trims of whimsically striped fabric, and chenille dot veils decorating your ‘do, Kat can bring it to reality. And that’s just one way Hey Sailor’s splurge-worthy treasures can up your style ante at the drop of a hat.

Your venture into millinery began when you fashioned fancy head adornments to rock at events where you sang for the band Ragwater Revue. Despite your original desire to handicraft one-of-a-kind accessories intended solely for personal use, at Ragwater Revue’s shows, people offered to buy the hats right off your head which must’ve felt positively exhilarating. What did these proto-Hey Sailor! concept hats look like?

Kat Toronto : Many of the hats I created in the very beginning were fashioned from bits and pieces of vintage hats that I had procured while thrift shopping or on eBay. I absolutely love playing with slightly tattered and torn bits of vintage clothing and turning them into new garments or accessories, this is where Hey Sailor! Hats had its humble beginnings. While working on my BFA at the Kansas City Art Institute I created a collection of garments from recycled vintage clothing and vintage fabrics so I think it was just natural that this transferred over into my hat making. Although I greatly enjoyed creating these early hats from vintage materials I soon realized that I wanted to know more about the technique, trade, and history of millinery. So began my serious venture into handmade millinery, and ultimately, Hey Sailor! Hats.

read the full interview in the February/March 2011 Issue

Spain’s underground fashion can likely hold a torch to the tight lace, undulating ruffle, and arresting shades and colors of Bibian Blue.  Using the corset in so many interesting ways, including steampunk, couture, and glamour designs, the catalogue of style at Bibian Blue appeals as much to the imagination as to the delight of the world over.

interview by Zach Rose and Meagan Hendrickson
photographer : María S. Varela
makeup artist : Jose Valle and Masuimi Max
hair stylist : Jose Valle
models : Masuimi Max, Bárbara Masiá, and Miss Doll

Could you tell us about the origin of the name “Bibian Blue”, how did you come by that name?
Bibiana : My real name is Bibiana and Blue is an adjective that when I started, described perfectly the sort of mood that I wanted to transmit into my clothing. Nowadays my collections are more colorful and diverse but still keep the romantic feeling of it. I think it suits my designs.

Your designs clearly have a lot of passion behind them, what are the goals or principles you try to adhere to when creating them?
BB : I just do what I like, I don’t really think about it that much. With time I am getting more confident about my ideas, so I just let them flow. I love to experiment with new directions.

What is your design process and how has it changed over the years?
BB : When I start a collection, I find the general concept of it, and I spend a few months looking for inspirations toward that direction, like colors, shapes, and fabrics or anything that I find interesting or related to the concept of idea of the collection. When part of the designs are drawn, then I start to make them. Some of them are the same as they were drawn and some end up completely different from the original idea, but in any case, there’s been a few months of work behind them.

read the full interview in the December/January 2010/2011 Issue

Audra and Loved to Death’s approach to the macabre is one that truly offers a new perspective on wearable art. Perhaps the Victorian post-mortem practices and the term Memento Mori has never truly ended. San Francisco’s Loved to Death takes the art of taxidermy to a chilling, yet positively sublime atmosphere and reminds us all that we too are animals and must respect the lives of every creature.

photographer : Jennifer Garcia
makeup artist : Sam I Am…
hair stylist : Mikel Sessions
lighting tech : Armando Esquivel
model : Wednesday Mourning
interview by Vanity Kills

“Edgy” and “decadent” are two of the most exhausted adjectives when it comes to words used commonly to describe jewelry, art and clothing. The mundane is dressed up in pompous declarations of grandeur all too often to obscure the fact that there’s nothing special about a few pearls dangling from a chain, or jeans with embellished metal details. The taxidermy masterpieces by Audra Dance of Loved to Death certainly do fit the criteria of creations one can easily ascribe the characteristic of being both “edgy” and “decadent” to. Alas, resorting to using these clichéd terms in relation to Loved to Death would do grave injustice to Audra’s work. Despite the fact that her necklaces assembled from 24 karat gold enhanced mink skulls essentially personify decadence in the flesh (or rather bone).

Still, the bones only manage to scratch the surface. Beneath which one can catch a glimpse into the secret lives of rodents in the afterlife. Where love, life and death lie intertwined, frozen in time and preserved for eternity.

Loved to Death’s masterfully constructed, statement-making accessories hold the power to draw all eyes onto the wearer. How would one successfully integrate one of your bold pieces, such as the Domestic Parakeet Wing Cameo Necklace, into their existing wardrobe?

Audra Dance : I think the trick would be to let the piece be the main attraction, don’t have too much going on with any patterned pieces. The bird wing piece in particular, unless it is worn with a complimentary color, black is the way to go with the wing pieces.

What is the secret to rockin’ a head once attached to a living bird while maintaining an air of sophistication?

AD : As for ‘maintaining an air of sophistication’, that comes from within, you either have it or don’t.

read the full feature in the October/November 2010 Issue

Enigma Fashions, a long-standing design company for custom formal wear, is heading to new heights with many developments in the works, new collections, fashion shows, and dreams to expand into interior design. In the peak of their busy season, we had the chance to learn more from Diana Drake aka Die, the main designing force behind Enigma.

photographer : Laura Dark
makeup artist : Mascaraid and Gray Artistry
hair stylist : Gray Artistry
models : MsPoisoness, Victoria Sapphire, Angela Makeever, Manzin, and Staley Cook
wardrobe : Enigma Fashions
accessories and jewelery : Organic Armor
written by Zach Rose

To the ladies I say to you, have you ever wanted to be a “gothic princess”? To the boys, have you ever wanted to be the most dashing gentleman of the evening? To hell with modernity, live your fantasies on one special night or day for the photos you take will immortalize your special moment forever.

June, that wonderful time of year when young men and women move forth into the adult world. The senior prom is a seemingly timeless ritual symbolizing this coming of age. For most the time calls for elaborate gowns, for the ladies only the best will suffice. It’s your standard tuxedo for the young man as he pins flowers on his be-speckled date. For the wedding, it seems to be more of the same time after time. Overall it is more often than not the infamous ‘bridezilla’ who lends the most character to her wedding.

There still exists a dilemma for the young romantic or daydreamer in all of us. If your run of the mill designer dress (or menswear) is not enough, what can one do to make the formal occasion a memorable experience? Fortunately the marvelous romantic custom designs at Enigma Fashions cater to those seeking something more. Offering one of a kind formal wear of a more Victorian and Edwardian flavor to evening wear reminiscent of noir films of the 1930s and 40s.

read the full feature in the June/July 2010 Issue

Lip Service going strong since 1987!  Auxiliary Magazine’s Lip Service fashion show features current 2009 styles to rare “holy grails”.

by Lizz Schumer

Lip Service has been providing a variety of alternative fashions to the masses for over twenty years. In the wake of a marketing and branding rebirth and hot on the heels of a Buffalo, NY fashion show hosted by Auxiliary Magazine, Lip Service has come a long way and is still going strong.

The now-iconic brand started as an alternative rock n roll clothing company in 1985 when creator Drew Bernstein (aka Lippy) convinced Brian Tucker of Live Nude to teach him how to screen print t-shirts. “I was hanging around Ape Leather a lot and got so bored that I asked if I could do something,” he said of his early start as a clothing maker and designer. A few pyramid studs later, he was laying the foundation for what would soon become a worldwide phenomenon.

read the full feature in the August 09 Issue