The fashion elite: Who are they and how do they get into that mind set?

Granted, I come from the largest and possibly most pretentious scene that there is: The Goth Scene, this is not a bash or a dig, it’s just the truth.  When you go out to a goth event or are interested in the “scene”, it is a very visual scene.  The goth scene consists of elaborate dress, hair, make-up, and spending time, money, and effect to look that way.  And yes, some people “get it” and some people don’t in the fashion department.

What I don’t understand is where some people get this idea of their elitism? (And I’m not just talking about the goth scene here.)  Do they think it’s the labels on their clothing?  The events they are involved in?  The people that they know and the contacts that they have made?  Or could it be that it’s just in their head, because most of the time no one likes them.  Putting yourself so high on a pedestal has its consequences and I’m sure it can have its superficial rewards.  I would think being so high on the “social and fashion totem pole” has to be very lonely.  But patting yourself on the back and kissing yourself in the mirror has to be tiresome, no?

I think it’s an attitude.

Could insecurities play a factor in the elitist air about them?  Possibly over compensating for something they really aren’t?  Yet, some of the most beautiful, best-dressed, most put together people are so down to earth.  These are the type of people who you would think to be the pretentious snobs, but they may just be a little shy.

Do you wear the clothes or are the clothes wearing you?  That’s my question to the “fashion elite”.  Who crowns this royalty or is it just a false sense of self?

Now, food for thought, because as George Michael said “…sometimes the clothes do not make the man.”

<3 Meagan Kyla

I recently received some Aggrotech albums and to be honest I haven’t really been a fan of the genera over the years, but hey I’ll give anything a listen. The EP from Vicious Alliance keeps getting stuck in my head and I found myself going back and re-listening to it. There is something about them; I found myself googling trying to find more about this group. They claim to exist in a parallel universe set in late 1930′s, early 1940′s where there was a second American Civil War and an influenza that wiped out half of everyone’s families. Vicious Alliance was a secret society formed to revolt against the breakdown of moral society and the corrupt government that ruled them. In 1939 they got everything together and revolted and from what I can tell, were victorious in the Battle of Philadelphia (which is where they band is headquartered).

The EP “Crushed by the System” is full of the synths, samples, hard beats, lyrics, and harsh male vocals that categorize Aggrotech. But they also have a female singer that well, sings. Perhaps this is why I was attracted to the band, but there is solid well-written music with good melody through-out. The recording levels seem to vary but hopefully this will get fixed on a full-length album.

I am sure that this EP will get its fair share of play in the clubs. I recommend checking them, and to be specific these tracks, out: Crushed by the System  & Where Soldiers Fall.

Mike

Tiz the season where every store, restaurant, bar, and bathroom you go into is playing that dreadful Christmas music. I can’t take anymore and really I only noticed it a few days ago. I guess I am lucky because I am sure its been playing in the background for a solid month now. Why is it popular, WHY!!!! I don’t want to go out to eat anymore, I don’t want to call anywhere where I might get put on hold, I even don’t want to watch tv because the commercials all have deck the bloody halls or what ever it is called playing. For the love of Pete please turn it all off!

Mike

by Vanity Kills

Date: December 1st, 2008
Entry: the “Black Lipstick Wearing Hippie” myth

Dear Diary,
Allow me to tell you a little story…

The tale begins thousands of years ago, when dinosaurs ruled the mighty Earth and I was 18. Yours truly was gracing my local Goth dive with my usual sweet and charming presence.  A strange girl sashayed past me rockin’ something that screamed “Walmart discount lingerie rack”.  An ensemble surely worthy of a day shift stripper for a low low price of $6.99.  It is my duty as a catty Goth girl to be the judge, jury, and executioner of any fashion travesty of this magnitude.  After all, what just had appeared in front of my eyes wasn’t exactly an outfit, more like a head on multi train collision.  As soon as the phrase “What the hell is that?” (Okay, I’m sure I used much harsher language) left my mouth, an ugly troll like creature appeared by side out of nowhere ready to defend the honor of this anonymous yet poorly dressed maiden.  Think of a short, fat, and over 40 love child of Captain Crunch and Gimli the dwarf from Lord of the Rings.  And don’t forget the ever glamorous skullet.  He attacked me for being “so judgmental” and informed me that people embrace the Goth scene to “get away from people like me”.

I guess dressing in black, having big shoes, and bigger hair automatically gives us the innate ability to be ever so tolerant and accepting of everyone around us.

Okay got it. Oh and in case you didn’t know mermaids, unicorns, and leprechauns are fully integrated into modern society too.  By the way, I’ve got a bridge to sell you at an attractive price, interested by any chance?

I don’t know if the fugly man gnome and I are part of the same Goth scene, but in the Goth scene I’m a part of, going out dressed to the nines and knowing that you and your friends will be the best outfitted girls at the bar is half the fun. The other half is laughing at the girls with neon green loose kanakelon falls mounted to mousy brown hair.

Fact: If you express yourself by basing your makeup on WWF wrestlers, I have the right to laugh at you.

Imagine how boring a night would be if you couldn’t elbow your friends and giggle in agreement everytime some hot mess that obviously didn’t look in the mirror prior to leaving their house walked by.  Political correctness is a necessary evil in the office where if you hurt someone’s feelings your sweet ass is in danger of getting 86ed.  What would be the PC term for those who are badly dressed anyway?  The attractively challenged?  Stylishly disadvantaged?  Ha ha ha… is there a Gothic sensitivity training camp I’ll be sent off to for Elitist Aversion Therapy?

They’d pry my eyes open so I’d be forced to look at club shots of kids in Tripp pants, ICP shirts, spiked collars, and Kool Aid dyed hair whilst listening to Covenant’s “Dead Stars”.  At the end I’d puke anytime the song would come on (and we all know that happens quite a bit) or I’d get the urge to point out someone’s fatal fashion flaws.  I’m sure some of you would love that.  ;)

This all goes back to that tired old eternally repetitive question of “What is Goth?”.  Some of us are drawn to the darker aesthetic because they feel that Goth as a whole is a subculture shunned by the mainstream and there is strength in numbers when being one of the so called misfits.  Many others are just attracted to the elegance of days past or the fantasy of the Hi Tech future that lies ahead.  The majesty and refined elegance of Victorian mourning garb.  Or the sleekness, symmetry, and cold android like grace of a well put together cybergoth get up.  Both styles project an air of elitism.  If you can pull it off you’re doomed to people deeming you unapproachable.  People will either hate you because they’re jealous or kiss your ass.  You can’t really avoid it and it comes with the territory.

Back when I was 18, my Gothness had no punk undertones.  It was not a political statement.  It wasn’t to show the world that I am open minded and that I reject the preps, cheerleaders, and thugs that populated my high school.  I didn’t cast aside the mainstream because I was tired of the mall worshipping consumer mentality of the American teenager and wore black outfits in protest.  Not even close.  I just thought that their attire and more importantly music sucked.  I wanted to cover myself in a wardrobe fit for a queen (I was all about the velvet and lace in high school) from head to toe. I liked my aural stimuli dark and romantic or angry and synthesized.  Revolting against anything never entered the equation. Thus calling out people on their latest Hot Topic travesties does NOT make me hypocrite. It just makes me GOTH.  Just makes me female.  We’re not at all different from our cheerleader friends.  Our outfits are just 10x cuter.

Perhaps the vertically challenged homely hobgoblin that deemed himself so morally superior to me and decided to lecture me on the folly and error of my gossiping ways would’ve been better off joining a hippie commune where everyone is special in their own way.  Acid and saggy boobed sky clad women dancing for everyone!

I mean if black lipstick really held the mystical powers of open mindness, erased all prejudicial thoughts, and gave everyone the urge to hold hands and sing kumbaya, wouldn’t Manic Panic become a government agency?  Wouldn’t all KKK members be captured and forced to wear Robert Smith’s tousled hair likeness on their chests and voila no more cross burnings.  Black Panthers would suddenly realize how pointless it is to hate whitey upon being given vampire capes.  The Taliban would no longer throw acid on Afghan schoolgirls for committing the crime of wanting to be a woman with an education after being mandatorily tattooed with the face of Peter Murphy on their right butt cheek.

I guess because some jocks make fun of you, you’re automatically supposed to be kind to others. Yeah right.  In reality most people can’t wait to take it out on someone else and make them pay their due.  A PVC dress does not change human nature.

If one is looking for a safe haven from the criticism and cruelty of the world, a scene where one faces the risk of social ridicule for being unable to properly recite Skinny Puppy’s complete discography in 30 seconds or less, the Goth/Industrial collective might not be the place for them.  The New Age movement might be more what you’re looking for.  They strongly embrace the self deluding “everyone is an unique snowflake” mentality.  The rest of us with self esteem strong enough to handle the occasional naysayer, just talk smack back about the offender to anyone and everyone within ear shot.  Then move on. If your ego is completely shattered by someone hating your new foam hair, then perhaps take the booze money you were spending at the bar and visit a therapist and nurse your wounded psyche back to health.

It’s just a club.  It’s just a bad outfit choice.  It’s just someone else’s opinion.  For goodness sake… it’s just GOTH.  ;)

<3
Vanity Kills

by Meagan Breen

The structure of a strong and basic wardrobe is the tried and true basics!  Now, I am in no way here to down play your vinyl pants, corsets, and bullet belts, but you should have a good grounding in which to make your “alt” wardrobe smoking!

The idea of having a solid “base” to a wardrobe is important, you’ll have versatility which will allow you to create many different looks.  Having a good foundation will only make choosing outfits easier, and you’ll be able to accommodate your mood and possible changes of interest.  I personally like to view at my wardrobe as a library of “looks”.  But at the same time, I also like to throw in a few oddballs for fun.

Let’s go over some good basics to own…

Black Pants – jeans . Dickies . flares . straight-legged . boot cut
You need this item in your closet, as it can be dressed up or down.  Black pants can be both versatile and comfortable or edgy and sexy.  I personally prefer a skinny or boot cut denim pant, as I can wear them with a variety of different shirts.

Boots – heeled . combat . flat . girlie . feminine . masculine . sleek
Boots are a monumental staple.  Guys just need to own them (as you can wear them practically all the time) and girls should have more than one pair (so you have the right style for the right outfit).  Even during family occasions, shine those babies up, and people will think no less of your shoes (even though they are the Doc’s you just wore out the night before to the club).

Jacket – blazer . bomber . suit-coat
Don’t just think “conservative blahs”; you really can create a signature piece in your wardrobe with a jacket.  Slap on some pins, patches, deconstruct, reconstruct, and make it yours.  I know people who are “known” by their jackets.  Plus it keeps you warm and may protect from beer spills.

The Plain Tee
What can I say, you just need to own plain tees! Solid colors in black, white, and all colors of the rainbow. Plain tee’s can be great under a dress, with a corset, or under a men’s suit coat.

Accessories – bandanas . pendants . band buttons . necklaces . rings . bracelets . handbags … the list can go on forever

Making an outfit with this selection of basic must-haves is simple, effective, and stylish.

For example:
For a lady: Take a white fitted tee, black skinny jeans, cropped and fitted pinstripe blazer, and Doc Martens.  Then throw on some colored bangles, a pendant necklace, and some band pins.
For a gent: A black tee, dark wash boot-cut jeans, DIY patched suit-coat, TUK monkey boots, and black leather wrist cuffs put together make a great outfit.

Think about all the items in your wardrobe, and then separate them into the basic categories above, once you start outfit building the possibilities are endless.  It’s just like shopping, but in your own closet.  These suggestions are geared to help you stretch your fashion outlook and see that spending a lot of moo-lah is not always necessary.

So, now we’re all set on basics.  When you start buying eclectic pieces to add to your wardrobe, you won’t be scratching your head thinking, “Why did I buy this?  I have nothing that matches it!”  You are prepared for any fashion disaster or success, thanks to those basics!!!!!!

Suggestions and Tips:

When shopping at the mall, online, etc, look at your closet before you leave for your shopping adventure.  This way you have a fresh grasp on what’s in your dark vortex of a closet before you go hog-wild and come home with those ass-less chaps you thought would look good with your Mickey Mouse tee.  Evaluate your cash flow too!  If you’re looking to shop smart, don’t be impulsive (well at least not all the time)!

Here are some fashion websites to build up those basics!

www.forever21.com
www.howkewl.com
www.dickies.com and www.dickiesgirl.com
www.americanapparelstore.com
www.tukshoes.com
www.zappos.com

in fashion, all that is old is new again
current trends in alternative fashion

by Sally Reardon
photograph Sequoia Emmanuelle www.sequoiaemmanuelle.com
Black Lotus Clothing www.blacklotusclothing.com

A dust-storm is gathering in subcultural fashion, and it’s covering all that was black in a flickering layer of grit, sand, and scratches. The clean-cut, forward looking minimalism of futuristic fashion is stepping aside for a new generation… a generation that looks to the past for inspiration. The result?  A vintage inspired fashion approach, sometimes chaotic and cobbled together, sometimes cohesive and composed, but always nostalgically fashion-forward.

Bellydance
Med’Devi Ink . Black Lotus Clothing . Kathleen Crowley Costume Couture . Rachel Brice

Alternative fashion has enjoyed a long-standing affair with the mystique of bellydance. Sensuous, body-positive, and creative, the appeal of Middle Eastern dance, culture, and fashion in the Gothic subculture is a natural one. The interplay between the two even spawned “Raks Gothique”, or Gothic Bellydance, a style that fuses Gothic sensibility with traditional Middle Eastern dance.

The history and culture of bellydance is a complex and varied one, too dense to summarize in a short article. The curious reader can discover more about the special facet of dark bellydance at Med’Devi’s The Gothic Bellydance Resource (www.gothicbellydance.com). An abundance of information about traditional bellydance is available on many sources throughout the internet.

Those of us studying bellydance for its aesthetic appeal will find much to celebrate about in the recently-launched Black Lotus Clothing label. Designer Christina Molcillo’s hand-sewn line of bellydance performance tops, belts, and accessories are an inspired take on typical performance costuming; she embellishes midriff-bearing tops and hip-brushing belts with black sequins, lace, striped fabric, and even original screen-printed artwork. The palette of rich blacks, ivory whites, and dusky grays would be equally at home in a dark dance club as on a stage, so don’t be afraid to appropriate a touch of bellydance fashion for your personal wardrobe. Also of note is Kathleen Crowley Costume Couture, designer of one-of-a-kind, customized fashion as well as a range of stylish and beautiful bellydance practice and performance gear. You can find her wares on Etsy, including Sampants, her capri-length stretch pants embellished with sweeping bias-cut ruffles.

Designer and performer Med’Devi Ink offers a very different take on this fusion-fashion approach. Her “Corset Belts” and “Skorsets” start with bellydance belts and scarves as an inspiration and blend it with the iconic Gothic fashion accessory, the corset. The result is a piece with cross-over appeal, with tassels and silken lengths that will flutter along with you on the dance floor. The ambitious can even create their own design using Med’Devi’s pattern for the patented design.

Interested in bringing a touch of bellydance style to your wardrobe? Since bellydance pieces are created with the needs of performers in mind, performance tops (cholis, halters, etc) will keep you comfortable and cool dancing all night long. Many pieces are made out of stretch fabrics and cottons that will move as you move, a beautiful answer to the oft-restrictive world of corsets and high heels. Prefer something a bit more modest? Full skirts and circle-skirts with scarves or belts draped around your hips allow for a full range of motion while still adding a touch of Middle Eastern flavor to your look.
Those more interested in accessories, hair, and makeup may prefer to adopt the dramatic makeup and adornments frequently associated with the tribal style of bellydance. Visit the website of the exceedingly popular Rachel Brice for more examples of this look. Kohl-lined eyes will be familiar for those who incorporate the gothic aesthetic into their style, but also consider purchasing some elaborate bindis or buying/creating some headpieces or hair adornments. The astute shopper will find many ready-to-wear pieces available, or you can craft your own out of old jewelry parts, fake flowers, chain, beading, and trim. Remember, personal style and taste is key, don’t limit yourself to the colors, styles and interpretations of the look created by others… as with anything creative, endeavor to inspire and innovate!

Vaudeville/Cabaret/Burlesque
The Dresden Dolls . Coney Island . Lucent Dossier . Dr. Sketchy’s Anti-Art School

With a focus on artistry, performance, sensuality and good old-fashioned showmanship, the appeal of the “variety show” has wormed its way into the alternative fashion scene, bringing with it a blast of much-needed color, humor, and energy.

As early as 2001 The Dresden Dolls were wowing audiences with their wry blend of “punk cabaret” music, first in the gritty atmosphere of Boston’s The Middle East and finally to audiences of thousands on tour with Nine Inch Nails. As appealing as their music was, equally so was the band’s distinct sense of style, which combined starkly painted “mime”-style faces and somber colors with 20’s-style lingerie and slips, often imitated by fans of the band. Nowadays, frontwoman Amanda Palmer favors a more eclectic look (she donned an original Skingraft dress in the Doll’s most recent tour), yet the band’s aesthetic remains firmly rooted in their vaudevillian past.

Circus troupe Lucent Dossier brings the look and sensibility of old-school Coney Island to audiences across the country while on tour with bands like Panic! At the Disco and flame-haired songstress Emilie Autumn. Attractions include fire-dancers, contortionists, jugglers, and even burlesque dancers. The look varies widely from performer to performer, but often combines elements of traditional circus costuming with gritty or dark references. Gender-bending dress and references are not uncommon, nor are irreverent combinations like sneakers and elaborate dresses, or Vegas-meets-Native-American style headdresses paired with skimpy outfits.

Dr. Sketchy’s Anti-Art School, originally founded in New York by Molly Crabapple in 2005, has spread to form branches worldwide, with events running across the US, Europe, and even Japan. Founder Molly Crabapple created the first event in Brooklyn as an answer to the typical “life drawing” format; she asked, “Why can’t drawing naked people be sexy?”. The result is 3-hour weekly drawing session featuring unusual and often elaborately-costumed models and burlesque performers, interspersed with offbeat comedy sketches and light-hearted drawing contests. Though the styles of weekly models may vary according to theme, many models pay homage to the classic elements of burlesque fashion, this means absolute decadence, glittering rhinestones, high heels, and perfectly matching apparel.

“Vaudeville” or cabaret-inspired influences are so diverse it’s easy to add a sprinkle of it to your look. Chances are you may already own some of the things you need,  just try to look at them in a new way. Do you have a bustled overskirt, perhaps a mini top-hat? Consider wearing the overskirt over a pair of pantaloons or ruffled shorts instead of a long skirt. Decorate your mini top-hat with feathers, gems and ribbons… you can even mount these on clips so you can remove the embellishments later to return to a simpler look. Scour vintage or secondhand shops for slips, especially those from the 30’s, 40’s, and 50’s, and wear them with opulent accessories of your choice. Striped stockings can be obtained at most shops, but look for vertical stripes for an especially figure-flattering look (horizontal stripes can widen curvy legs). Perhaps the menswear-inspired aesthetic is more your forte? Suspenders, bowler hats, and menswear inspired pieces like heeled oxford or button boots make for delightfully irreverent selections. Consider pairing them with otherwise “feminine” pieces (corsets, frilled skirts, garter belts) for textural contrast, or style your look completely after sideshow circus dandies. For additional suggestions, refer to vintage photos of circus performers or burlesque stars, easily found through online archives. Take a look at traditional circus costumes… are there design influences there you can borrow from?  Remember, while made-to-match and perfectly coordinating pieces can be attractive, they are not necessary for a successful look. A combination of colors, materials, and fabrics can lend that punch to your outfits that makes them more interesting.

Steampunk
Skingraft . Ernte Fashion Systems . Vecona

The whirlwind of press regarding “the steampunk question” makes another explanation seem redudant. Put simply, steampunk is fundamentally anachronistic in nature; it is the future as envisioned by inhabitants of previous eras. For many, this means Victorian aesthetic with old-style technology touches, but you needn’t stop your exploration of the genre there. Though this style is now associated with the cliché of top hats adorned with welding goggles, there are many more original and compelling images to be explored in steampunk style and many designers breaking through the mold.

Enter apocalyptic-glam outfitters Skingraft. Skingraft Designs makes leather and twill pieces, ranging from heavily studded, laced, and silk lined jackets and gowns running into the thousands of dollars, to a ready-to-wear leather and twill pieces that are more accessible to the average shopper. Skingraft’s approach to design is part “Mad Max”, part western-wear, part retro-futuristic, capturing silhouettes of bygone eras in decidedly modern materials with a contemporary cut. In the same vein is Ernte Fashion Systems, creators of mostly heavily embellished jackets and gowns as well as primitive jewelry cast in silver and adorned with gems. Ernte’s pieces betray a high level of detail in a couture presentation whether it is hundreds of interlocking chains, intricate embroidery sweeping across fine leather, screen printed art, or brocades, furs, and jean material pieced together. The look? Deconstructed style that is highly cohesive and intentional, unity of presentation in chaos.

Representing the other end of the spectrum is the elegant avante-garde styling of Vecona. Not to be couched in the “steampunk” genre solely, Vecona’s inspiration runs the gamut from aristocratic styling of eras gone by to playful alternative wear. However, many of her pieces (from black and brown striped dresses to accessories featuring baby doll eyes and keyholes) would be at home in any steampunk inspired wardrobe. Her accessories evoke a “wearable collage” feel for the wrist, head, or neck, exploding with pearls, tattered lace, burnished brass, and one-of-a-kind antiques.

The key to infusing steampunk in your attire is to reject clichés and integrate what you find personally inspiring… steampunk doesn’t need to end in 19th century Europe! If you love Asian decor or prefer black to brown bring these things into your look. Perhaps you identify with the “punk” side of steampunk, this can come out in brass chains, tattered and torn “collage-style” garments, or antiquated technology. Maybe you’d like to wear a full Victorian dress and accessorize with taxidermy jewelry and aging bronze pieces. Some even prefer to merge technology, science, and fashion, creating pneumatic wings that expand with a touch of a button or vials filled with ambiguous fluids. Whatever your approach, try to infuse an element of the personal and the hand-made in it. Steampunk ensembles become “richer” when a hand-crafted necklace, a laboratory creation, or an original design is part of the total look.

by Meagan Breen

Ladies step aside, as it’s a chance for Auxiliary Magazine to give a salute to the men in the alt fashion world.  Very little attention is paid to men’s fashion but there are many dapper, swanky, quirky, and suave gents out there making fashion statements!  We have picked out a few guys with a solid grasp on their individual sense of style, and who are passionate about their outward appearance as well as the alternative scenes they are in. These guys are everything but boring!  And we got them all to take time out of their busy schedules to talk about their fashion influences, tips, and shopping strategies.  Cause hey, guys like clothes too!

Drummer from the Buffalo, NY based band The Rabies, Steve Sojka finds influences in deathrock, goth, and punk to create his own “Sophisticated Punk” style.  Steve started pushing the fashion limits at a young age, he would buy suit coats at thrift shops, modify them into “punk” fashion by adding liberty spikes, and wear them with ripped jeans.  Through the years as his influences, music tastes, and personal acquaintances changed, he started throwing in other items; poet shirts, vinyl pants, bondage accessories, and black slowly started filled his closet.  But music apparel, like band swag and patches, has always been a constant in Steve’s wardrobe, as DYI is a staple of his style.

Steve finds a lot of his clothing when he is on tour with The Rabies, visiting cities like New York City, LA, and Toronto.  One of his favorite stores to stop in is Trash and Vaudeville in New York City. Trash and Vaudeville (actually two separate stores on top of one another) is located on the infamous St. Mark’s Place (once a punk haven) in the East Village.  According to Steve, “If you know Jimmy he’ll give you 15% off!”  He’s also been know in the past to shop at Serious in LA and the since closed, Siren in Toronto.  Steve says, “There are so many stores out there you just have to take the time to check them out and have an idea of what you are looking for.”

Lip Service is this sophisticated punker-a-go-go’s favorite fashion label.  He does find his dress to be influenced by his bands music. He likes to dress classy, but throws in some items with shock value for when he performs on stage.  Sitting behind his green leopard print drum kit and often seen wearing a noose as a necktie, Steve beats those pigskins like it’s his job (literally!).  With his bleach blonde spiked hair he does not blend into the background, and sometimes he’ll be seen wearing an occasional top hat and gas mask combination!  Steve’s greatest fashion tip on and off stage is, “Always make sure your package looks good!”

His musical involvement with, The Rabies, has Steve performing many roles: drummer, promoter/advertiser, roadie, and driver. The Rabies formed in 2003 and since then have “infected” many cities as well as receiving airplay in the US and as far as Australia!  The Rabies can be described as “horror rock”, with performances reminiscent of horror movies and old cabaret vaudeville with a B-movie twist.  The Rabies music is creepy, but fun!  The sound of the band has often been described as a concoction of punk, new wave, and goth.

If you want to “get infected” check out Steve and his band mates on their website www.therabies.com.  “No matter how much you dare to resist, they will infect you…The Rabies are contagious.”

Derek Hendrickson can be spotted wearing top hats to work while draped in the usual black and truly believes, “everyday is Halloween.”  Derek says, “I enjoy making a skeptical out of myself, as fashion is fun.”  When describing his style, you can simply call him “gothabilly”, a blending of goth and rockabilly styling (also a musical genre, yes, it does exist!).  But when it come to dress, he’s not limited to one label, as Derek also enjoys neo-Victorian or steampunk influenced garb. From his well-groomed pompadour quiff to his red-cross creepers, Derek is a character!

This top-hatter finds his favorite articles of clothing at Trash and Vaudeville in New York City and online at www.shrine.com.  He has a vast collection of Guayabera’s, also know as Mexican wedding shirts, and you will never see him without a unique piece of jewelry hanging around his neck.  His favorite bone saw necklace by Spragwerks is the usual everyday neckwear.  Derek also enjoys strolling the isles of Target and thrift stores, looking for button-up vests, fedoras, and adding to his collection of striped socks.  He can’t get enough of the velvety, spooky, and creepy attire that haunts his closets.

Along with an artistic and expressive sense of style, Derek is a jack-of-all-artsy-fartsy-trades.  His current major focus is on tattoos, and he works as a tattoo artist at Renaissance Studios in Buffalo, NY.  Derek has been tattooing for close to 3 years and has developed his artistic drawing skills into works-of-art on the flesh.  Before taking the plunge into the job of tattooist, Derek traveled all over the country selling his sculpted creations.  He says he, “Suffers from Elvis Disease,” and his hand-poured, hand-painted, hand-molded satirical Elvis busts have appeared in tattoo magazines and celebrities homes, and have even been featured in the teen magazine Jane.

All of Derek’s creativity is reflected in his clothing, but it is in his own tattoos that his sense of humor comes out!  This dapper-cadaver shows his love for Spam with a comical creation on his leg, has an astronaut Elvis singing in space on his forearm, has Frankenstein-like stitches around his arms, and the infamous ZZZ’s on his knuckles. There is never a dull moment in the world of Mr. Dzzzzz.

Check Derek out at www.myspace.com/derekula and www.renaissancetattoosbuffalo.com.

Newt a.k.a. Shawn Egressy best describes his style as, “Newt!”  He can be dressed in anything from a t-shirt and jeans to a gimp mask and tailored suit.  He says, “I’m not here to make a radical statement, I’m here to be me and do what I do. If I feel like making an oil painting under a bridge with a girl’s dress on in the middle of summer, I’m going to do it.”

Newt has a varied array of shopping adventures, some favorites are: Metro Park, Hot Topic, Against All Odds, and Ebay. N3wt blends styles from hip-hop culture and skater style, and often likes to purchase items that are a bit obnoxious in size, color, and design.  Artful Dodger and Subscript are two of N3wt’s favorite fashion labels; both have a modern and urban feel to them.  They use sleek cuts, bright colors, large silk screens, and offer an artful spin on the hip-hop style of dress.

His dress and style are influenced by his artistic renderings and his musical projects. He describes his paintings and drawings as, “madness.”  His creations are often large in size with lots of colors.  They are not limited just to paper and canvas; Newt’s artwork can be found on his own body as tattoos, on walls, and on fabric. He makes art for art’s sake and says he’s not trying to hide any deep meaning behind them.

Newt plays with his band Kryszt, performs live with Digital Geist, and creates beats soloing as N3wt.  Newt is no stranger to the music scene, as he has been producing, creating, and djing electronic music since 2000.  Some of his influences are: Orbital, Aphex Twin, This Morn Omina, and cEvin Key.  Newt has performed his solo and group projects in many cities: Buffalo, Rochester, Albany, Cleveland, and Toronto are a few.  Newt always brings his high energy to the performances along with the music.  Newt’s current focus has been producing, as music is a deep passion for him and he would like to share it with as many people as possible.

Check him out at www.myspace.com/n3wt, www.myspace.com/kryszt, and www.digitalgeist.com.

Gathering these insights into alternative fashion from our “men with style” has been inspirational.  It’s been refreshing to hear alt fashion discussed from the male point of view.  No matter what your style or what inspires you, ZZ Top said it best, “every girl’s crazy about a sharp dressed man!”  Amen.

Photographer : Luke Copping
Fashion Stylist : Meagan Breen
Models : Steve Sojka, Derek Hendrickson, and Shawn
“Newt” Egressy

tuxedo tails and shirt from thrift store, top hat from Trash and Vaudeville, black jeans by Trash, and coffin toed shoes from Bovver

left
Lip Service daggers shirt and  black jeans by Trash
right
Lip Service t-shirt, Lip Service pvc pants, DIY bondage belt made by Steve, and creepers by Demonia

left
velvet blazer, black shirt with hand-sewn buttons by Alchemy Gothic, Lip Service pants, and motorcycle boots
right
shirt from Shrine, vest from Arsenic Fashions, and pants by Tripp NYC

left
burgundy Guayabera shirt by Raugo Classic, Dickies pants, and creepers by GBX
right
Cirque du Soleil t-shirt, and pants by Dogpile

left
vest by Tripp NYC, t-shirt from Hot Topic, pinstriped pants by Billabong, and shoes by Dr. Martens
right
striped pink shirt by Morbid Threads and pants by South Pole

cocktail dresses, gowns, lace, and silk for all of winter’s evening occasions

Photographer : Jennifer Link
Fashion Stylist : Meagan Breen and Jennifer Link
Makeup Artist : Rachel Mazurek
Hair Stylist : Erin Moser
Models : JessiKa Violet and Marie Christina

left
Vice by Lip Service Dutchess De Sade II Danse Macabre Victorian Mourning Jacket and corset Skirt in black lace textured pvc material
right
Vicious Dolls ivory corset with black lace overlay, Vicious Dolls leather gloves, skirt with sequin stitched hem by Tatterdemalion Designs, and pearl pendant necklace by Shalottlilly

left
Blacklist by Lip Service Core Ruffle Dress Shirt, Tatterdemalion Designs burgundy bustle overlay skirt, and Scarlet Hat by Dungaree Dolly
right
Kambriel full length stripped black coat with long black ruffled skirt by Vicious Dolls

left
Lip Service R.I.P. Eternal Love Cap Sleeve Top with all-over tombstone print and Kambriel crushed velvet bloomers with lace trim
right
Kambriel Silk Wisteria Gown in black with Blacklist by Lip Service Core Cincher in blood red silk

left
Lip Service Funeral Doll Perfume and Lace Party Dress in violet with Victorian Petal Necklace by Shalottlilly
right
Blacklist by Lip Service Requiem for the Dead II Long Ago and Far Away Waist Cincher with Fatality Rate Layer Skirt  in black velvet and Dead and Loving It Party Dress in burgundy velvet

a guide to all the clothing featured in this issue, december 08

Alchemy Gothic
www.alchemygothic.com

Arsenic Fashions
www.arsenicfashions.com

Artful Dodger
www.artfuldodgercollection.com

Black Lotus Clothing
www.blacklotusclothing.com

Billabong
www.billabong.com

Bovvers
1216 Buena Vista St, Pittsburgh, PA 15212

Dickies
www.dickies.com

Dogpile
www.dogpilecloze.com

Dr. Martens
www.drmartens.com

Ego Assassin
www.ego-assassin.com

Ernte Fashion Systems
www.erntefashionsystems.com

GBX
www.gbxshoe.com

Hot Topic
www.hottopic.com

Kambriel
www.kambriel.com

Kathleen Crowley Costume Couture
www.KathleenCrowley.etsy.com

Lip Service
www.lip-service.com

Med’Devi Ink
www.meddevi.com

Morbid Threads
www.hottopic.com

Rachel Brice
www.rachelbrice.com

Serious Clothing
www.seriousclothing.com

Shalotlilly
www.shalottlilly5.etsy.com

Shrine
www.shrinestore.com

Skingraft
www.skingraftdesigns.com

South Pole
www.southpole-usa.com

Spregworks
www.myspace.com/spragwerks

Subscript
www.karmaloop.com

Tatterdemalion Designs
www.tatterdemaliondesigns.com

Trash and Vaudeville
4 St Mark’s Place, New York, NY 10003

Tripp NYC
www.trippnyc.com

Vecona

http://www.vecona.de

Vicious Dolls
www.vicious-dolls.com

Massiv In Mensch -  Meanwhile Back In the Jungle
released by Artoffact on 18 November 2008
data : 5th studio album . 14 tracks . 54:42 run time . www.massiv-in-mensch.de

reviewed by : Mike Kieffer

genre : EBM/Techno/Industrial

packaging : Not having the actual CD case and insert and only having the audio files, I can only comment on the cover art.  It is striking, bright pink and black with a hypnotic pattern on it. Simple design but I would say it definitely stands out and screams LOOK AT ME! Which I feel is fitting for Massiv In Mensch.

content : Massiv in Mensch is back and banging out another classic Massiv In Mensch album. This time it’s a little different, it only takes to the second track to notice this. On this album, they teamed up with Mind.in.a.Box on the track “Supermassive Gravity”, and lets just say this paring should do a full-length album together because it would be just incredible.  I heard this track about 10 months ago on a compilation CD and instantly fell in love with it.  I recommend finding the other versions of this track because the version on this album is not the best one that I have heard. Moving on, the next group of tracks are the thumping bass with humorous lyrics, well the ones you understand (the lyrics are half German and half English), that you have come to expect. The track “Alone” switches it up a bit and shows some range with a slower more emotional feel to it. This also provides a nice break in the album from the non-stop club smashers. Near the end of the album you find some almost purely instrumental tracks, which round out the album nicely. If I were DJing I would have a hard time picking one track to play, in fact I would play all the tracks but maybe the intro track… although I have done some weird things while I was DJing before.  Overall this album is unmistakably Massiv in Mensch. Solid from start to finish, this could be one of their best albums. If you liked their other albums you will definitely like this one, unless you went deft, then perhaps you wouldn’t like it at all.

recommended tracks : Supermassive Gravity, Hou je bek vuile teef, Alone

grade : A- (music : B . lyrics : B . recording quality : A)

reviewed by : Aaron Andrews

genre : Electronic/EBM

content : A batch of well composed tracks that frankly surprised me. I’ve heard the bands name for long enough now and based on this album its time for me to go back and see what I’ve missed before now.  The music is solid and imaginative, I never felt like I was listening to the same track over and over. I didn’t get bored enough on the second or third listen to skip any track. Influences from acid house, techno, trance, and harsh EBM all mix to keep my interest. There’s a good variety of style within the album, some trance inspired (“Crystal”), some laid back (“Alone”) and some dance floor pounders (“Never Trust the Outline” and “Powerful”).  Lyrics are in both German and English depending on the song.  Due to my not speaking German I can only comment on the English writing, I found the lyrics to be good, but not exceptional.  Vocal performances are solid and everyone who contributes adds to the songs in a positive way.

recommended tracks : Supermassive Gravity (which features Mind.In.A.Box), Pink Dream, Hou Je Bek Vuile Teff, Powerful, As I Wake by Your Side

if you like you might like : Mind.In.A.Box, Rotersand, Emperion, Scooter

grade : B- (music : B . lyrics : B- . recording quality : B)

reviewed by : DJ ArcaTek

content: EBM club goers anticipate what kind of style Massiv In Mensch will do next. What direction? What sound? A band that was never predictable had us waiting and wondering when their latest release will be ready for completion. Well the wait is over as “Meanwhile Back in the Jungle” has been released by the German duo. Banging out hard driving beats along with German vocals and hard synths, Massiv in Mensch is the cure for ailing dancefloors everywhere. When DJs like myself obtain new music our first and natural instinct is to thumb through to the possible club hits. Well I am happy to say that I found some on here and I am confident that I found one with “Supermassive Gravity”. The song is beautifully mixed and mastered by Mind.in.a.Box and let’s just say this song delivers. It is equally blended with electro/industrial sinfulness that taps you on the back and when you turn around you get belted in the face with a hard driving catchy rhythmic exploding beat that when you’re done listening to it you instantly want to hear it again and again. Heads up to CD and mp3 players out there because you will be having your repeat buttons violated. Massiv in Mensch has a comical side to themselves too, people who already own any of their cds have already found that out. That is evident on tracks like “Hou Je Bek Vuile Teef” and “Pink Dream” as well as some life affirmation inspired works like “Powerful”. It certainly looks like they were fans of a certain 19th century philosopher from Germany wouldn’t you say? “Ikonoklast” and “Never Trust the Outline” journey us around the album through an electronic trip of what EBM is all about. I was pleased with this album and even though Massiv in Mensch are not at the top of the goth subculture’s food chain they should be in the same area code but lack of exposure in the clubs and the states have pushed this group back.  Hopefully that will change and Massiv in Mensch could launch a US tour to put themselves out there. That’s what the big name groups in this scene have done and done well. People want to see groups that are played in their clubs, CDs, and iPods. Clubbers in the states want to experience those bands followed by good performances so don’t forget about the people in the US because it will only help the bands gain that upper escalante that is so desired by many bands but only attained by a few. If you don’t own any copies of Massiv in Mensch then do yourself a favor and go out and buy yourself a copy because this group should be in every goth, rivethead, raver or whatever’s CD collection and I suggest to start with “Meanwhile Back in the Jungle”.

if you like you might like :  Birmingham 6, Utah Saint, Dubok, L”ame Immortelle, The Azoic

grade : A- (music : A . lyrics : A- . recording quality : A-)